For all its rumbustious nightlife, Ibiza is a different beast altogether once it’s shaken off its hangover. Caught at the right time, its beaches can contend with Europe’s finest, while the interior carries murmurs of bygone Mediterranean life, with shady citrus groves. • Related article: The three colours of Ibiza See A hilltop first fortified by the Romans, D’Alt Vila in Ibiza City’s Old Town is surrounded by sturdy Renaissance walls designed to withstand a pummelling from the artillery of potential invaders. Visitors can walk the perimeter of the walls for views of the elegant 14th-century cathedral. The island of Formentera – the smallest of the four Balearic Islands – is a half-hour boat ride south of Ibiza. Take a stroll on the two-mile walking trail from La Savina to the northernmost tip of the island. Regular ferries run from Ibiza City to La Savina (returns £37). Ibiza’s eastern coast can lay claim to some of its best beaches. From the village of Sant Carles de Peralta, follow a side road to the beaches and pine-fringed coves of Cala Llenya and Cala Mastella. A few miles to the north is the slightly busier parasol-lined beach of Cala de Boix. Pacha is an aristocrat of the clubbing scene that has traded on the northern side of Ibiza City’s port since the 1970s. Summer sees its 15 bars rumble nightly to house and electronic beats – the terrace is the place to hear more relaxed sounds (Jun-Sep; admission from £40). Close to the village of Sant Miquel de Balansat, Cova de Can Marçà‘s limestone caverns were originally frequented by smugglers. To add to the drama, its caves and subterranean pools are lit by coloured lights (guided tours £8). Eat and drink Blue Bar on Platja de Migjorn is a favourite on the island of Formentera. True to the name, everything is painted in shades of blue – from the parasols to the toilets. The restaurant offers good seafood and risotto, and DJs play on summer evenings (San Fernando; Apr-Oct; drinks from £7). La Brasa’s forte is its quality fish and meat, expertly sizzled over charcoal, with paellas, stews and croquettas also on the menu. Meals are served in a garden shaded by vines, banana trees and bursts of bougainvillea (Carrer Pere Sala 3; set menus from £9). Ibiza City’s family-run Comidas Bar San Juan offers simple fish dishes at outstanding value. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations, so be sure to arrive early (Carrer de Guillem de Montgri 8; meals from £12). Set in the sleepy hamlet of Sant Llorenc, La Paloma is an eco-friendly restaurant specialising in Italian cuisine – hams and salami come fresh from Tuscany, while salad is sourced from its vegetable garden. There’s also a less formal café below (mains from £13). S’Ametller (‘the Almond Tree’) is one of Ibiza’s most innovative restaurants. The daily menu seizes upon market-fresh produce. Dessert might feature flao – a mint-flavoured cheesecake and Balearic Islands speciality. The restaurant also periodically offers cooking courses (Carrer de Pere Francesc 12; set menus £17). Sleep Perched on a clifftop by the sea, Hostal Restaurant La Torre is a world away from noisy Sant Antoni de Portmany a couple of miles to the south. The terrace has magnificent views along the rocky headlands of the western coast, while its basic but comfortable rooms were recently upgraded (Cap Negret; from £55). The cheerful, British-run hotel Ca’s Català in Santa Eularia d’es Rieu has the feel of a private villa, with 12 spacious rooms overlooking a leafy garden courtyard. Rooms come with four-poster beds, whirling ceiling fans and are all painted in gleaming white (Calle del Sol; from £70). Hotel la Ventana is a charming 15th-century mansion set on a shaded square in Ibiza City. Some of its rooms have four-poster beds and mosquito nets, while others have balconies overlooking the city walls. A rooftop terrace and trim gardens provide a welcome urban retreat (Carrer de Sa Carrossa 13; from £105). Can Planells just outside Sant Miquel de Balansat is a case study in rustic elegance, with a handful of tastefully decorated double rooms and suites. The best of these have private terraces looking out to the orange and lemon trees of the surrounding gardens (Venda Rubió 2; from £115).